Before we got out to the country, the country came to us.
The year was 10 days old when town shores received a solid, glassy little southwest swell. As it tapered off Friday, the country rose to 20 feet on a west-northwest swell.
By Saturday morning, some of that energy had wrapped into town: We awakened to hollow, 2- to 4-foot waves that packed that special country punch. As bodysurfer Nicky Droze told me in a recent email, North Shore waves are “a lot more powerful than every other side of the island.”
Yet that morning, for the first time in six months, I took out my newest and shortest board, which I’m far from mastering.
It’s easier to duck-dive. But the riding didn’t go well: I took a pummelling on the fast, steep peaks.
In the lineup, my neighbor Mark gently observed that I needed more velocity when taking off. “The groms are weightless; they just float into the waves on their tiny boards. We old folks have to paddle harder.”
Could Mark be saying I was fat? I had to admit that despite diligent exercising, I had…